Buy Schlage 40-134 Pin Kit with Snap-Tight Plastic BoxSchlage 40-134 Pin Kit with Snap-Tight Plastic Box Product Description:
- Basic Schlage keying kit
- Contents: Bottom pins, top pins, pin springs, retainer cap pins, key gage, follower bar, t-pin springs, t-pins, removable caps
- Keys Schlage and Dexter
- Key blanks not included
- Schlage brand
Product Description
40-134 Features: -Re-Keying kit.-Plastic case.-Overall dimension: 12" H x 2.5" W x 8" D. Includes: -Includes pins, springs, key gage, cylinder plug follower for keying pin tumbler locks. Collection: -Schlage collection.
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
17 of 17 people found the following review helpful.
Missing one important tool
By D. Braun
This kit has everything you need to rekey a home lock EXCEPT for the cylinder cap removal tool. This tool is not needed for the knobs but is needed for the deadbolts. Since nearly all homes have deadbolts on the outside doors, you will want this extra tool.As another reviewer commented, you can make do with just pliers and a bit of patience, but the tool does make things easier. Since the tool by itself usually sells for $25-$30 it might make more sense to go for the larger Schlage 40-132 keying kit which includes this cylinder cap removal tool.Otherwise, these keying kits are a no-brainer and a must-have. The last time we asked a locksmith to match our locks, he rekeyed just two and charged us $150. This kit paid for itself halfway through the very first rekeying that we did!
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful.
Saved money and didn't have to worry about finding an honest locksmith
By UB
I used this kit to rekey two houses to a single key (nearly 30 plugs in total). It took a bit of planning to assure I didn't run out of pins. With that out of the way, the first lock was the challenging. Then I was removing, rekeying, and reinstalling cylinder plugs from any of 3 different types of locks in about 15 minutes each. It was fun. Don't forget to check out the online Schlage instructions; either the condensed or the longer, more detailed version are excellent. If you rekey "profile" Schlage cylinders (as in Emco / Anderson storm doors) the kit does not include the hex wrench you need to remove the screw so you can "top load" the pins and springs. They're easy to find (it's 1.5 mm NOT 1/64" as some web sites report) at just about any hardware store. I don't trust locksmiths, who may keep a copy of you house key without your consent; this alternative eliminates that worry completely.
10 of 12 people found the following review helpful.I really enjoyed using this kit to rekey my house
By James Gagne
I just spent two days rekeying about a dozen Schlage locks in our home. Many were dual-cylinder dead-bolts, one was a locking doorknob, and two were door handle sets. I used this Schlage rekeying kit as the main source of parts. I also bought a new single-cylinder Schlage deadbolt to replace one of the dual-cylinder locks (replacing the inside lock with a thumb lever means less risk of being locked in the house in case of fire) and as a source of fresh keys, complete with key codes. The whole thing took about six hours and cost under $100.I'm reasonably handy around the house. So mostly this was a joy to do, deeply satisfying. The hardest part was putting the locks and knobs back on the door so that each side would open and lock properly. If I didn't get it just right, one side couldn't lock the door at all. Juggling all the parts to keep them in place while reassembling the lock on the door was a huge challenge.Here are some suggestions for anyone who would like to try rekeying their Schlage locks on their own. It's not that hard, and maybe you can learn from my mistakes. Hope this helps:1. Watch some Youtube videos on how to rekey locks. There's a particularly nice manufacturer's video for Kwikset locks, which aren't *that* different from the Schlage (they differ mostly on how you take them apart to get at the cylinder). I also found some *extremely* helpful PDFs on the Schlage website specifically intended for rekeying.2. Unless you're rekeying only one or two locks, get this kit. It has *everything* you need, except one tool that's not a big deal. I also needed a Philips-head screwdriver, a regular screwdriver, and a jeweler's screwdriver set. I used powdered graphite to lubricate the locks; it comes in a small plastic tube. You also need your new key, along with the key code. The code is the series of five numbers, 0 to 9, that describes the length of each bottom pin, starting from the shoulder (the wide part of the key that you hold). If you don't know the key code for the new key, use the key gage to find it (watch the videos to learn how).3. There are lots of small parts here; try not to lose them. The Schlage kit contains replacements for many, but not all. Put a mat on your table to keep parts from bouncing onto the floor; a double-wide paper towel did the trick for me. Don't do this over a hard floor or shag carpet.4. I found it hard to disassemble and reassemble the doorknob to get at the lock cylinder, probably because I only did one. And it was challenging to figure out how to get at the lock in the front door handle set. Closely examining each situation revealed a tab you pushed in somewhere, located as unobtrusively as possible. But the two cylinders in the back door were located in a single seamless piece of solid brass, without a hint of how it was initially put together, let alone how I could take it apart.5. Releasing the cylinder from the lock requires popping out a C-ring on doorknob locks and unscrewing a retaining ring on deadbolt locks. There's a tool in the Schlage kit (part of the key gage) for the C-ring, which wasn't *that* hard to remove. Be careful: don't let it fly across the room.6. On deadbolt locks, a Cylinder Cap Pin keeps the retaining ring from turning. The Pin is spring loaded by a Cylinder Cap Pin Spring. Both go into a small hole next to the cylinder (spring first), and there are replacements for each in the Schlage kit. I found a tiny jeweler's screwdriver was perfect to depress the pin enough to be able to unscrew the retaining ring. Right under the ring is the disk that holds the tang that operates the lock. So put the retaining ring, disk, tang, pin, and spring off to one side.7. The next part is tricky, and I screwed it up the first time I tried it. Put the *existing* key into the lock and turn 90 degrees, but **don't let the cylinder come out.** Put the white cylindrical Follower Bar at the back end of the cylinder, ensuring that there is **no space** between the follower and the part of the cylinder that faces the springs and top pins. (The videos and PDFs are particularly helpful in explaining what I mean.) Push the cylinder out with the follower bar, being careful not to let the top pins pop out. Keep the follower bar well into the lock with about an inch hanging out on either side. You can toss out the old bottom pins from the cylinder.8. Put your new key into the cylinder and insert the proper bottom pins according to the key code, pointed end down. The top of each pin must line up flush with the top of the cylinder. If it's not, you may have not picked the right pins (happened to me) or have the wrong key code. Be sure you've got this part right. If a pin is too small, you could reassemble the lock and find you can't turn it, open it, or fix it. Luckily, my mistake was once to use two pins that were too big, and the lock simply wouldn't go back together.9. Push the cylinder back into the lock, again rotated at 90 degrees and being careful to push the follower out with the cylinder without letting the top pins pop out. Replace the C-ring (doorknob lock) or the spring, pin, disk, and retaining ring, using the tiny screwdriver to depress the pin while you screw on the ring (deadbolt lock). I found I often didn't tighten down the ring enough to hold the cylinder in place. You know this is what happened when you can't remove the new key, and the cylinder can slide back and forth in the lock. One time I tightened the ring too much, and then it was hard to turn the cylinder at all.10. I like to squirt a puff of powdered graphite lubricant into the lock before putting it back in the door. It can be messy, and you need to work the lock (move the key in and out and turn the cylinder) a few times to move it into place. I think the lock then works smoother and may be harder to pick.11. The tough part is getting the tangs aligned properly while juggling the locks, the cylindrical mounts that hold the locks, and the bolts that hold it all together. The tangs freely rotate 180 degrees inside the lock, so there are two positions that let you put the lock into the bolt mechanism. But the wrong position means one or both locks won't open and close the bolt. I just did this by trial and error. Took a while.
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